Doing Your Homework
Surfing is a remarkably dynamic sport. More so than
in other outdoor sports, the surfer is at the mercy
of the environment. A complex blend of geography,
wind, tide, and swell can make the very same beach
a small and mild long board haven one day, a stiff
and challenging platform for short board acrobatics
another day, and a messy jumble of pure danger at
other times.
Doing your homework means learning about the weather
and wave conditions that affect where you plan to
surf. Some say surfing is "a winter sport,"
and for the expert surfer, that's true. If you are
in search of gentle waves for a fun day at the beach,
though, smaller summer surf may be just the ticket.
So learn how to identify the waves that you want --
and are able to surf.
Even if you plan to rip it up on the 60-foot waves
of Maverick's one day, you have to start on smaller
stuff to gain the strength and skills to live through
it. Surf within your limits, and if an emergency arises
like getting banged on the head with your board or
getting cut with a body board fin. You’ll have
enough left over to get back to the beach safely.
Respecting the Beach
At its most basic, respecting the beach means treating
where you surf as you would any backcountry area.
It also means approaching the waves and water with
safety in mind. Be aware of your environment and control
your body board.
Respecting the beach also means observing surf etiquette.
Surfers are sometimes accused of being territorial,
even hostile to newcomers. It's important to work
into a new area slowly and observe the customs of
right of way on the wave. One of the biggest dangers
on a wave is a loose board, and the more people are
at a spot, the more likely someone is to get hit by
a board. Part of surfer "territoriality"
is the simple fact that a crowded wave is not as safe.
Organizations offer an important avenue for respecting
the beach. They organize beach clean-ups, work to
protect beaches, and monitor water quality. Whether
or not you surf regularly, consider locating the organizations
in your area and volunteering some time.